Body Tilt In Corners

Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
My 110 sways in the corners. To the point that some friends following me on some hard mountain corners called me because they were so convinced I was going to tip over. It is not as bad as that - I explained that it is only the body swaying, the weight is all in the lower half (chassis, running gear, engine, etc), but I've known for a while that it is probably time to address the coils/shocks.
Recently, I loaded the 110 up in anticipation of evacuating due to horrible fires in Southern Oregon. Guessing somewhere around 600+ pounds - 6 - Gallons water, Camping gear, 2 - Full Coolers, Guns (many), Ammo cans (lots), 4 - Mountain Bikes, 2 - Paddle Boards, Clothes, etc.). Noticed the rear sits pretty low (see pics). Left it loaded for a couple weeks, until we finally got some rain & it feels safe to unload the RV & 110. Drove it around the block to see if the leveler works & took another pic (I know my hub seals are leaking, I'll start another thread about that).
I'm assuming the existing springs are original & Not Heavy Duty. I'm adding a Drifta storage slider drawer in the cargo area, so there will always be more weight than stock. I plan on ordering heavy duty springs all around & new shocks. Other than a rougher ride, is there a down side to Heavy Duty?

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mgreenspan

Founding Member
Definitely replace your suspension components. They make stock height heavier duty springs. I found OME medium duty springs and shocks to improve the ride on Discovery 1s and my 110 and used them for many years in those configurations. They will give you about 2” of lift compared to fresh stock springs, maybe more if yours are worn.
 

JimC

Super Moderator
Staff member
Wow, I’ve never seen a 110 squat like that, and I’ve packed some stuff in rovers.
 

Red90

Well-known member
Airlift. It is the best choice for people with variable loads. You will be able to add 1400 pounds with no change in ride height and it will help the sway as well. I use them in my 110 and run around 1100 pounds extra on the rear axle between normal empty and setup for camping. Add a bit of air and the ride height stays the same. I have a heavy truck at 6950 lbs loaded. I also have front and rear sway bars and body roll is acceptable.

This the the kit for a 110.

Do you have a rear sway bar?
 
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mgreenspan

Founding Member
He has a 1986 that very likely has the original springs on it. Put new stock springs and shocks on it and it will be improved. He doesn’t need variable load leveling air lift for 600 lbs of camping stuff. People don’t add air lift springs for carrying passengers in the rear. The air lift will definitely solve the problem, but it’ll mask the cause. I had a 2001 or 2002 Honda Odyssey with air lift bags in the rear. Made the drive feel more sporty and less tippy like a boat, but it was still not a sports car.
 

erover82

Well-known member
Does your 110 have sway bars fitted? If rear coils are sagging unladen, they should be replaced. If carrying such loads is a rare event, I'd stick with factory rate coils. If more regular, I'd go with RKB101111 dual or RKB500300 triple rate coils.
 
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Red90

Well-known member
He has a 1986 that very likely has the original springs on it. Put new stock springs and shocks on it and it will be improved. He doesn’t need variable load leveling air lift for 600 lbs of camping stuff. People don’t add air lift springs for carrying passengers in the rear. The air lift will definitely solve the problem, but it’ll mask the cause. I had a 2001 or 2002 Honda Odyssey with air lift bags in the rear. Made the drive feel more sporty and less tippy like a boat, but it was still not a sports car.

There is literally no downside to the Airlift bags. When empty, run them at 5 psi and you will be just like normal. When loaded, add air as needed to get your ride height back. At the same time, it add spring rate which helps with the body roll issue. A kit is $125.

He probably has a load leveler in there that is not working and this makes a great replacement.
 

CDN38

Well-known member
Start with checking all your suspension components for wear. For example, things like worn bushings can make for a very vague and "swaying" ride. Replace what's worn out. No telling what springs you have, may be original, a previous owner may have replaced them. OME are the go to for a replacement of whatever is in there. For airbag helpers, look here https://airbagman.com.au they have Defender specific for 90, 110 and 130
 

mgreenspan

Founding Member
There is literally no downside to the Airlift bags. When empty, run them at 5 psi and you will be just like normal. When loaded, add air as needed to get your ride height back. At the same time, it add spring rate which helps with the body roll issue. A kit is $125.

He probably has a load leveler in there that is not working and this makes a great replacement.
The downside to air lift springs in this situation is that it is masking the cause of the sag and roll. Relieving a symptom, but not eliminating the cause. My Odyssey analogy didn’t translate well enough. No matter how much air I had in those air lift springs on that Honda Odyssey it never solved the problem of it being a Honda Odyssey.

I’m guessing that if two average adult humans stood at each rear corner and rocked this vehicle back and forth they could probably achieve some gnarly sway.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
The old man emu worldwide website has a spring weight calculator based on how much you load your truck. Makes it super easy.

If you do not want to get any extra height they do make heavy duty standard height springs.

As in all things you get what you pay for cheap springs are going to be cheap
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
The self leveler was only fitted with the stock springs. Idea was to provide the best ride and the self leveler compensated when the rear was loaded heavily. The inner outer spring setup was similar. The inner outer setup on a 130 was rated for a considerable load.
 

Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
Getting back to this late. Thanks all for the replies. I like to stay as basic as possible & I'm not trying to lift it (a little lift is okay).
I’m guessing that if two average adult humans stood at each rear corner and rocked this vehicle back and forth they could probably achieve some gnarly sway.
For sure. There was probably more than the estimated 600+ pounds in it to get the pictured squat, but even before loading it down I would get comments at how much the truck moves when I climb on it to access the rack. I don't mind spending to get quality heavy duty standard height springs & shocks.
As for adding inner springs or air lift springs...I'm not sure what this is about. I'll have to research it. Sounds fancy, when I like simple - fewer parts to break.
Does your 110 have sway bars fitted? If rear coils are sagging unladen, they should be replaced. If carrying such loads is a rare event, I'd stick with factory rate coils. If more regular, I'd go with RKB101111 dual or RKB500300 triple rate coils.
I do have the sway bar. Never noticed the rear sagging with no load. I plan on loading it (although not near as heavy as this time) for road trips/camping/mountain bike trips (4-6 MTB's & people) regularly when weather allows.
Bushings are suspect as well, as the entire suspension is likely original. I'll be adding those to the shopping list. This is building up to be another educational Land Rover experience!
The self leveler was only fitted with the stock springs. Idea was to provide the best ride and the self leveler compensated when the rear was loaded heavily.
Is the load leveler necessary/useful if heavy duty springs are used?
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Getting back to this late. Thanks all for the replies. I like to stay as basic as possible & I'm not trying to lift it (a little lift is okay).

For sure. There was probably more than the estimated 600+ pounds in it to get the pictured squat, but even before loading it down I would get comments at how much the truck moves when I climb on it to access the rack. I don't mind spending to get quality heavy duty standard height springs & shocks.
As for adding inner springs or air lift springs...I'm not sure what this is about. I'll have to research it. Sounds fancy, when I like simple - fewer parts to break.

I do have the sway bar. Never noticed the rear sagging with no load. I plan on loading it (although not near as heavy as this time) for road trips/camping/mountain bike trips (4-6 MTB's & people) regularly when weather allows.
Bushings are suspect as well, as the entire suspension is likely original. I'll be adding those to the shopping list. This is building up to be another educational Land Rover experience!

Is the load leveler necessary/useful if heavy duty springs are used?
No once you increase spring rate it's pointless. Yours doesnt appear to be working.
 

Roverman2010

Well-known member
Inner springs fit and forget, air bags will take lot of fitting pipes fittings to leak need a compressor etc. Heady duty springs when not loaded up rides horrible.
..
 

Tbaumer

Technical Excellence Contributor
I'm thinking new springs, shocks & bushings will make it feel like a new ride. Are inner springs noticeable in the ride quality without load? If so, I can add inner springs in the future if needed. After checking out the inner outer springs set up - I like it. Now for the hard decision part - Heavy Duty, Triple Rate, OME, Old Man Emu, Types of bushings, Types of shocks, o_O!?! I am new at any suspension work. I have a 110 that will carry a few hundred pounds all the time (Inner cage, Front Runner rack, Drifta cargo slide drawer, extra fluids, Ostrich Wing Awning, tools) & occasionally carry 4-6 MTB's, camping gear, 5 adults & a great dog. Not planning on lifting, but lockers are in the future. I trust the experience on this site. Not looking for cheap options - What is a good set up?
 
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