Bearmach 110 rock sliders

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Has anyone ever used the Bearmach 110 rock sliders with tree guards? Wanted to see how they held up. I made my own sliders for my 90 but I have so many current projects going on with the 110, that I think I will just buy some for now... They will be used as intended, so I would love to know what sort of thickness they are. I think the Terra Firma sliders are 3mm. So I am imagining the same or maybe 4mm. But if they are under 3mm, then it just won't do. I even consider 3mm to be borderline for my use...
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
I actually want to get some without a tree bar for my 110. I’m not sure what my options are for replacements, but I could be persuaded to sell them
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
If you're putting them on a 110 the bearmach and the Tf ones both use really substandard mounts. Doesn't really matter how thick they are because they bolt to the bulkhead in the front and then a flimsy ass rear crossmember that's made to hold up the seatbox ona 4 door truck. If you have a two-door truck like mine you have to add this crossmember. It's an open c channel maybe 1.5 mm thickness steel.

You will definitely bend the bulkhead corners and the rear floor crossmember before the sliders
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I really wanted some psyoptics sliders but alas…he is out of that game right now. So is Rockware. And I still have to finish the 2.8 convsion, finish he axles and suspension, do the disco2 rear seat dod, rewire the truck…. I just don’t want another task. Who else makes great sliders? I’d like them with tree bars and jack points so TF is out. Bear is leading, but I’ll mod have them for strength. who else is worth the dough as there is a huge jump in price from Bearmach to the next step…
 
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Z.G

Well-known member
I really wanted some psyoptics sliders but alas…he is out of that game right now. So is Rockware. And I still have to finish the 2.8 convsion, finish he axles and suspension, do the disco2 rear seat dod, rewire the truck…. I just don’t want another task. Who else makes great sliders? I’d like them with tree bars and jack points so TF is out. Bear is leading, but I’ll mod have them for strength. who else is worth the dough as there is a huge jump in price from Bearmach to the next step…

Johns were the best, but hopefully he can take time off and start making quality ones again.

Unless you're tying back to the frame, they're probably mostly all the same. Ours have 3 points of attachment, which is sufficient for most 110 activities. The real bonus is that they're galvanized, so when they do get scraped, they dont rust as quickly.
 

KW1985def110

Well-known member
I'm not familiar with the Bearmach, so can't comment there. But I've been trying to find sliders that tie back to the frame without much luck. These three options appear to be the most stout that I've found. I reached out to Kingpinfab and they will modify/fab whatever you want. Prices on their website are in AUD.



 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I'm not familiar with the Bearmach, so can't comment there. But I've been trying to find sliders that tie back to the frame without much luck. These three options appear to be the most stout that I've found. I reached out to Kingpinfab and they will modify/fab whatever you want. Prices on their website are in AUD.



These all appear to mount similar to TF or Bearmach…but at 4-5 times the cost plus freight. I’d make my own before dropping that coin. Ill take a swing at the Bearmach, give folks a review.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I thought Ike's standard advice to Defender owners seeking assistance was "Well you should have bought a Series".
It is, lol. I am sure Ike makes good stuff, but if I am going custom, I would go wait for someone like John that just has a bit more development. The simplicity of Pangolin's stuff, although fitting, is well within my wheel house and buying some steel, cutting it and tossing a few welds on isn't hard. I'll put the slider on the back burner of my own construction list and just get the Bearmach and review it for all y'all. Enough folks run the TF. I talked with Bearmach and Art at UKAR and they are 3mm, pretty standard for most folks on sliders and seem to hold up alright. Again, the supports are the key and I will take a look there and give my 2-cents. I see what I will do when I crawled under the truck last night... Now just wait for them...
 

evilfij

Well-known member
Ike at pangolin is worth a call. He owned my SII one owner before me. That was the late 90s. Not sure he makes defender sliders though.

Anything on a 110 is going to be a compromise. I fit sliders to all my vehicles, but not for sliding over rocks, I like the additional side impact protection. 3x3 1x4 all square tubing as a base if you want to make sure they hold.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Ike at pangolin is worth a call. He owned my SII one owner before me. That was the late 90s. Not sure he makes defender sliders though.

Anything on a 110 is going to be a compromise. I fit sliders to all my vehicles, but not for sliding over rocks, I like the additional side impact protection. 3x3 1x4 all square tubing as a base if you want to make sure they hold.
I hear you. And I am in no way disparaging pangolin or Ike's skillz. Well respected. There is just a different design philosophy. I want a little more flash than his current style---which is very in keeping with my D90--- for the 110. When you see Jon's work like this:
1643260446176.png

Compared to Ike's typical style (which is similar to how I made the sliders on my 90), then you can see what I am going after. Not Jeep bling--just a little more sleek. And Sleek isn't a Series guy style nor should it be. I was hoping for light/strong/beautiful production version (frankly, come on Safari Gard! that should be up your alley). But play to your strengths is how I feel. I'll just fab them later and get a cheap temp one now for the time being---I will be able to reuse the mounts and it will save me a ton of mental energy. I was worried about how the TF's and such mount but it seems similar to how almost all on the market mount--So I'll add a stout trans mount, which I can weld in an hour-- No biggie. I have been thinking how to make them functional/stout but with an auto fold down step for the wife anyways---i really should do that for her. I have it figured out on paper---I did a similar self raising design for my pop up, so this shouldn't be an issue if I can just delay it 9 months to a year...
 

evilfij

Well-known member
Saw Jon’s on JimC’s truck. They are the best I have seen.

not sure which one I have. Probably Mantec for the 110 and something I got on sale from Zach on the 90.
 

NMEXPAT

Well-known member
I have bearmach sliders with step / tree guards are n my ROW 110.

I've never slid them on anything. Mainly used as steps. I've never used them as a jacking point either, for hi lift type jack with cylinder attachment.

I like them a lot. For awhile there bearmach had an issue with calculating shipping costs to USA. I bought these and other heavy and cumbersome parts and had them airfreighted. Shipping was cheaper than anything stateside. They fixed that error eventually.

My only complaint is that they are slippery as a step. I've put grip tape on them where you normally step.

Like most are saying the weak point is the way they mount. I remember bearmach having an extra mount part sold separately. I only found out about it afterwards. If my memory is correct it is then mounted in three places instead of two.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Great to know. I have already planned to pull off a third mount from the transmission mount-just sandwich a plate on the outside and use some thickwall rectangular tubing that I already have, that I believe is 3/16". That'll be more stout than the other mounts, I am sure. Shouldn't take more than 20 minutes to make then I'll shoot some paint on it. Thanks for letting me know--I didn't know that was an "optional" part! If you have a part number, I would love to see what it looks like as I couldn't find it.

To add grip on my D90, I had the tape go around the edge slightly--it helped. No tree guards though. On the 110, where you step, I am planning to wrap the tree guard with 1" (or so) grip tape in the same fashion that you would do a tennis ball racket handle with grip tape. That would help a bit, I am sure!
 
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NMEXPAT

Well-known member
Great to know. I have already planned to pull off a third mount from the transmission mount-just sandwich a plate on the outside and use some thickwall rectangular tubing that I already have, that I believe is 3/16". That'll be more stout than the other mounts, I am sure. Shouldn't take more than 20 minutes to make then I'll shoot some paint on it. Thanks for letting me know--I didn't know that was an "optional" part! If you have a part number, I would love to see what it looks like as I couldn't find it.

To add grip on my D90, I had the tape go around the edge slightly--it helped. No tree guards though. On the 110, where you step, I am planning to wrap the tree guard with 1" (or so) grip tape in the same fashion that you would do a tennis ball racket handle with grip tape. That would help a bit, I am sure!
I looked for the part on bearmachs website. If I remember correctly, it was referenced in the mounting instructions. Just ask Bearmach for the instructions for the BA 110T. Or ask them for the part number for the additional outriggers. I had them email me the instructions but I deleted the file. Bearmach's related parts algorithm is goofy on the webpage.
 
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