MountainD
Technical Excellence Contributor
Definitely. When I did my LS swap, I used ground side switching for all components and switches.
Battery Box Set Up
- Thread starter RBBailey
- Start date
Definitely. When I did my LS swap, I used ground side switching for all components and switches.
nas90tdi
Well-known member
Yes ,it will work. But, you should get a connection between the frame and trans. Your engine,trans, and diff are rubber mounted. You are asking the ground to connect through an indirect path if you don't have a direct connection between the frame and the drivetrain.
And as Red says, you have the main drop off point to the upper bulkhead, and this is quite often corroded and dirty. And, once again, taking a path through the bulkhead, the bulkhead mount brackets and the bolts. All of which are constantly corroding.
Think of it like a boat. On a boat, there is no frame or path to follow through the hull back to ground. So, you always create that path yourself back to a common location. I tend to do my Land Rovers the same instead of depending on the various parts to do the job.
Hopefully we aren't making this worse for you. It's a very simple vehicle electrically, and I have ripped out a million miles of bodged Rover wiring that was working just fine. I just tend to want everything traceable in case I have to work on it in the dark. Which goes back the boat. I have hung upside down in the bilge before,try to figure out what the hell someone had done while I drifted. Not pleasant. And, usually came back to someone trying to jump things from location to location instead of logically thinking the flow of electrons through in a loop.
And as Red says, you have the main drop off point to the upper bulkhead, and this is quite often corroded and dirty. And, once again, taking a path through the bulkhead, the bulkhead mount brackets and the bolts. All of which are constantly corroding.
Think of it like a boat. On a boat, there is no frame or path to follow through the hull back to ground. So, you always create that path yourself back to a common location. I tend to do my Land Rovers the same instead of depending on the various parts to do the job.
Hopefully we aren't making this worse for you. It's a very simple vehicle electrically, and I have ripped out a million miles of bodged Rover wiring that was working just fine. I just tend to want everything traceable in case I have to work on it in the dark. Which goes back the boat. I have hung upside down in the bilge before,try to figure out what the hell someone had done while I drifted. Not pleasant. And, usually came back to someone trying to jump things from location to location instead of logically thinking the flow of electrons through in a loop.
The main connection is to the gearbox, as the starter is the big load and it grounds to the flywheel housing. There should be a ground strap from the engine to the chassis and that acts as the main path for everything else (which ground to the bulkhead or body). I like to add a ground from the engine to the bulkhead as well instead of relying on the chassis bolting. I would not add anything else as it makes troubleshooting harder as stated above.
Always pull, clean and check the three big spots (main wire to gearbox, engine to chassis strap and main harness connection to the bulkhead)
Always pull, clean and check the three big spots (main wire to gearbox, engine to chassis strap and main harness connection to the bulkhead)
As far as grounds go, I have one from the starter to the frame. From battery to frame. Where else should I put one?
The battery box is now set up. It certainly isn?t pretty, and kind of makes me feel stupid that I can?t figure out how to route a couple of wires. But nothing is rubbing, nothing is loose, or bound to come loose, and I think it will work for normal loads. I need to find something to cover my positive terminal better.
The battery box is now set up. It certainly isn?t pretty, and kind of makes me feel stupid that I can?t figure out how to route a couple of wires. But nothing is rubbing, nothing is loose, or bound to come loose, and I think it will work for normal loads. I need to find something to cover my positive terminal better.
Attachments
Ben looks good. I agree, don't think you need a ground from the starter. Can see why this would hurt but not necessary
He reason I have a Ground from starter to frame:
A tdi should have a ground strap from one of the bolts that bolts the starter to the block over to the chassis. If not, IME they tend to eat starters.
~ Uncle Douglas
I can?t see that the engine is grounded any other way.
A tdi should have a ground strap from one of the bolts that bolts the starter to the block over to the chassis. If not, IME they tend to eat starters.
~ Uncle Douglas
I can?t see that the engine is grounded any other way.
Hmm, interesting thought. Having just replaced my starter today this topic is fresh on my mind. Curious to hear any other thoughts if this ground is helpful other than building in some redundancy for appropriate grounds.
Can't be harped on enough, the ground strap from the chassis to the starter mounting bolts is a factory item and should be considered required equipment, not an optional bit of kit. If its not there someone has removed it.
As John said, the starter is often the most powerfull electronic device on your vehicle and requires an excellent ground in order to operate properly. A poor ground reduces the hp of the starter and greatly increases how hot it gets which is what kills starters.
I have seen several trucks where owners complain the truck "eats" starters. They were missing the factory ground strap.
As an example, many when mounting a winch on a defender cheap out and ground the winch to the bumper or via a bumper bolt instead of running a heavy ground cable all the way back to the starter. Yes the winch will work, albeit it @ reduced hp and you can sometimes see sparks from the bumper bolts during winch operation on trucks setup this way. Poor ground = heat. End of story.
The normal factory routing was neg post on the battery to a bolt on the outrigger behind the battery box. From that same bolt a linking cable over to a stud on the left side of the lt230. To further assist there was the strap on the starter over to the chassis rail. Just having these in place isnt enough they need to be clean and making good contact.
Rant over, will go back under my rock
As John said, the starter is often the most powerfull electronic device on your vehicle and requires an excellent ground in order to operate properly. A poor ground reduces the hp of the starter and greatly increases how hot it gets which is what kills starters.
I have seen several trucks where owners complain the truck "eats" starters. They were missing the factory ground strap.
As an example, many when mounting a winch on a defender cheap out and ground the winch to the bumper or via a bumper bolt instead of running a heavy ground cable all the way back to the starter. Yes the winch will work, albeit it @ reduced hp and you can sometimes see sparks from the bumper bolts during winch operation on trucks setup this way. Poor ground = heat. End of story.
The normal factory routing was neg post on the battery to a bolt on the outrigger behind the battery box. From that same bolt a linking cable over to a stud on the left side of the lt230. To further assist there was the strap on the starter over to the chassis rail. Just having these in place isnt enough they need to be clean and making good contact.
Rant over, will go back under my rock
Doug, great info! Thank you. Off to measure and purchase a new ground strap. It looks like someone deleted my ground. Happy New Years everyone!
It is easy to verify the integrity of the ground circuit. Take your volt meter set to DC volts. Put one lead on the engine and one lead on the battery negative terminal. If you see more than .5V when cranking, you have a poor ground.
I didn't read all of the other comments, so this may have been stated already, but AFAIK there should also be a ground strap from the block to the left inner fender.
I didn't read all of the other comments, so this may have been stated already, but AFAIK there should also be a ground strap from the block to the left inner fender.
Ren Ching
Active member
WreckITFrank
Technical Excellence Contributor
Due to recent discussion and the fact that I just did some minor rust remediation on my battery box, looking for some pics of what people have setup for their battery mounting, cabling, extra power distribution, etc. Post up what you have. Right now I have a relatively rust free blank canvas.
Show me what you got.
Show me what you got.