Axes?
- Thread starter RonL
- Start date
When you are splitting wood a splitting maul works way better than an axe. If you are using an axe you want it to be dull. You want to separate the wood grain- a sharp axe will cut instead.
mgreenspan
Founding Member
https://www.amazon.com/Collins-Splitting-Wedge-Diamond-Shape/dp/B000QTMT7W something like this. I don't use this brand but I bought something similar 10 years ago.
We call those splitting wedges, hit them with an 8lb or heavier sledge. We used those when one of these doesn't get the job done.
https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...35vlPYb6UtBvsbTNmXosW3jdLIMueoVVyUaAlxL8P8HAQ
We went to a tractor mounted spliter so no longer do this the hard way.
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rover4x4
Well-known member
Collins are made in some third world country
If you want a nice splitting tool check out council tool, they are located in Lake Waccamaw North Carolina. I've seen a nice splitting maul by stihl. I have three council axes and two splitting mauls, buy something made local!
If you want a nice splitting tool check out council tool, they are located in Lake Waccamaw North Carolina. I've seen a nice splitting maul by stihl. I have three council axes and two splitting mauls, buy something made local!
Yes, yes there are easier ways to split wood, but the OP wasn't asking about what to use to split wood, they asked how to sharpen what they already have. I have a fireplace inside and a pit outside. I don't split more than a cord of wood a year and I can't justify spending money on something dedicated to splitting wood. Plus, I really like using an axe a few days a year.
I use a Gerber (Fiskars) splitting axe. It's like half axe, half maul. This is the new version.
http://www.gerbergear.com/Cutting-tools/Axes/36-Power-Splitting-Axe_31-003636
I also have an Estwing Camp Axe.
http://www.estwing.com/ao_campers_axe_long_handle.php
To keep them sharp I use a file to take any big nicks out of the blade. After that I use a rough sharpening stone and just follow the profile already ground into the blade by the factory. It's an axe, so I'm not worried about it being perfect and I don't use my fine grit stones on it. Something that you can hold in your hand works to get the angle correct. It's a lot easier to clamp the axe in a vise or set it on your lap and take the stone to it, than the other way around. Lots of people rave about the sharpening pucks available for this purpose (https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-3289-Dual-Grit-Sharpener/dp/B017T2GG5E), but I didn't see a reason to buy something new when my existing stones work fine for me. YMMV and I'm sure there's a proper way to do it, but this is how I do it.
I use a Gerber (Fiskars) splitting axe. It's like half axe, half maul. This is the new version.
http://www.gerbergear.com/Cutting-tools/Axes/36-Power-Splitting-Axe_31-003636
I also have an Estwing Camp Axe.
http://www.estwing.com/ao_campers_axe_long_handle.php
To keep them sharp I use a file to take any big nicks out of the blade. After that I use a rough sharpening stone and just follow the profile already ground into the blade by the factory. It's an axe, so I'm not worried about it being perfect and I don't use my fine grit stones on it. Something that you can hold in your hand works to get the angle correct. It's a lot easier to clamp the axe in a vise or set it on your lap and take the stone to it, than the other way around. Lots of people rave about the sharpening pucks available for this purpose (https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-3289-Dual-Grit-Sharpener/dp/B017T2GG5E), but I didn't see a reason to buy something new when my existing stones work fine for me. YMMV and I'm sure there's a proper way to do it, but this is how I do it.