Aux Power Req's - What are you running?

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
Curious what you are using the linear actuators for? I was trying to figure out how to use them for my transfer case but gave up and went with the cable conversion.
Sean
I used them for my transfer case on my DII, but I don't need them on this. It is for a camping conversion set up if I need it--so undetermined at the moment. Neuroinvasive West Nile virus knocked out my frenetic nerve feeding my diaphragm so I have sever breathing issues, particularly when camping at altitude but I refuse to accept defeat. So I installed them on my pop up so I don't have to manually crank anything (I used 30" 3000lb linears) so I wanted the option for lifting my top if I do that conversion. I dug out my electrical plan after my post to remember why I thought it was full (in theory) and found what they are earmarked for: 4xseat heaters, 1xaux light, 2xAC, 2xelec fan, 1xair horn) so I guess I am full and better get with the wiring!

not trying to hijack but I have this setup that was picked up for a project many moons ago that never came to be. free to anyone that wants it. you pay shipping. PM me to avoid polluting this thread.
Sent you a PM!
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
What are opinions on primary size wire for Battery and Winch? I have some 2/0 that I'll use for the winch, but curious to know what size for main battery wiring.

*Bonus if anyone knows the factory lengths for main power and ground? 200tdi for reference, and assuming 90 and 110 are the same.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
What are opinions on primary size wire for Battery and Winch? I have some 2/0 that I'll use for the winch, but curious to know what size for main battery wiring.

*Bonus if anyone knows the factory lengths for main power and ground? 200tdi for reference, and assuming 90 and 110 are the same.


What I do to avoid this issue is that I run a four-gauge wire that is approximately the largest size stuff that you can bolt to the back of the alternator easily. I run that underneath the manifolds directly to the starter hot side. I also run the stock wiring on the engine loom so that the existing circuits that are wired to the truck will function through the engine harness multiplug.. The battery line hot side to the starter Is about 2.5 feet long. It's 1/0 gauge.

I'm actually about to wire this up this week and I'll post some pictures I'm waiting for 90degree 5/16 post to 4awg terminals.

Since the 4 gauge run from the alternator to the starter is so short approx 1foot you would never max it out.

Tldr: run a big fat cable directly from the alternator to the starter and run the existing wiring parallel. this way you have an upgraded charge circuit and all of your original stuff still functions.
 

O2batsea

Well-known member
I'm no expert, but for me, the solution was dictated by lack of space. On the Autosparks site you'll find these relay and fuse modules that can hold a variety of components. A single module can support 20 micro AT fuses! There's a mini relay module that holds 7 relays. So you can pack a lot of functionality into a very compact space using these. They also fit the standard size relays. They have 70A high power relays for switching main circuits. I put in two of these so that when you turn the key to "on" it kicks in these main relays. One for glow plugs, one for everything else. It helps to have the proper crimper tools too as I have pretty much everything coming off a relay and getting fused.
I recommend the fuses that light up when they blow. Helps to see the problem right away.
Nothing against the Blue Sea stuff it just wasn't right for me.
 

Ozzie

Well-known member
I'm no expert, but for me, the solution was dictated by lack of space. On the Autosparks site you'll find these relay and fuse modules that can hold a variety of components. A single module can support 20 micro AT fuses! There's a mini relay module that holds 7 relays. So you can pack a lot of functionality into a very compact space using these. They also fit the standard size relays. They have 70A high power relays for switching main circuits. I put in two of these so that when you turn the key to "on" it kicks in these main relays. One for glow plugs, one for everything else. It helps to have the proper crimper tools too as I have pretty much everything coming off a relay and getting fused.
I recommend the fuses that light up when they blow. Helps to see the problem right away.
Nothing against the Blue Sea stuff it just wasn't right for me.
Which module from Autosparks?
I'm looking to run a good guage Ign and ACC wire from the new Ignition switch to the z battery Box and hopefully find something small like you suggested and have those two wires go to relays. 1 from ACC to relay then would trigger the fuses and then to radio/GPS, , CB, interior map light, USB power, power windows.....the Ign one to fuses then 2xrelays for heated seats, pwr door locks, front AUX lights and Rear Aux hi mount reverse lights...
Ozzie
 
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