Aux Power Req's - What are you running?

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
Figured I'd ask the group what they are running for aux power. I am trying to figure out how many circuit's I want, and what I would use them for. I am all about sealed options, so likely not going to use Blue Sea or similar, but open to it. My ask is really how many circuits you used, whether you truly needed ignition triggered circuits or just used relays. I'm not doing week long camping trips and crazy trails, so I wont have air lockers or any aux heat or anything. Just some aux lights, maybe compressor, and some odds and ends. Thanks.

Bonus for sharing your setup or battery box.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
I'm running exactly what you say you don't want to do lol.

8 slot blue sea box, in batt box, fed with 4 gauge.

Relays for acc and switched circuits

One 80amp breaker for yet to be installed eps.
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
@Napalm00 maybe i went in a little hot. I still may rock some Blue Sea. Just not sure. I should have said "what would you have done differently" Once I know what was done. Too many, too little, had to add later, etc.
 

LR Max

Well-known member
I've got the following circuits:
-Interior lights (ex-MOD truck so home brewed), no relay, straight off the fuse block
-Front Aux lights (relay)
-Hella Horns (relay)
-Back up Lights (relay, but don't really need it)
-Heated seats (two relays)
-Aux ports, 2 USB and one 12v (from ignition switch off of fuse block)

In the future I could see adding
-ARB 12v air compressor
-Air locker actuator (I doubt it takes any amps, so probably run straight 12v+)
-Maybe more outlets

If I had to do it all over again, I'd get a nice fuse and relay block and build off of that. Its been a pain running a new wire to the battery and/or ignition wire everytime I want to add something. Also engine bay and behind the dash has gotten cluttered with wiring. If I could have a fuse block with one big ole 12v+ and ONE ignition wire, that would be extremely nice.

I've been looking at the Bussman unit or maybe something similar. But yeah, if you plan on adding more than two circuits that need relays, go ahead and get something like a Bussman or blue sea with integrated relays and go from there. This will make your life easier.

2 weeks ago I spent an entire evening running another ignition wire for the heated seats. Would've been nicer to have a ignition wire at a relay box, pull another pin and piggyback off of that. But no, now I have another wire running across my engine bay.
 

RDavisinVA

Technical Excellence Contributor
A bank of 6 XS-Power D-5100 Batteries connected to an Aims 3,000 watt inverter backed up by Redarc DC to DC charge controllers with a 250 AMP alternator and solar panels.
 

Overlander

Well-known member
Callsign: KM4BOR
I have an overland mindset so aux power is more complex in my case. my recommendation is to segregate all add on accessories to a central fuse bus (e.g blue sea) with constant + (starter battery) with a single rated feed (and main fuse). you can use accessory or ignition trigger wire to fire relays that run off that accessory bus. you can even add a low voltage protection relay on the bus main feed to not leave you stranded. stay clear of modifying your original harness. you'll thank me down the road. you can run any constant low draw items (like USB ports) off the bus without relay. things that are high demand (lights, compressor, etc) should be relay triggered.

for a more complex setup like I use, you would go with a completely separate aux battery circuit that is charged with a dc-to-dc charger, solar integration, etc)
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
@Napalm00 maybe i went in a little hot. I still may rock some Blue Sea. Just not sure. I should have said "what would you have done differently" Once I know what was done. Too many, too little, had to add later, etc.


haha no sweat. I have a very spartan setup in my truck. Horn, headlamps ho/lo , radio, fan all on the blue sea to avoid the shitty LR wiring. My relays are in the engine bay. its been like this for 7-8 years and works for me. can send a pic later if you like
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
Currently armchair building solutions from Egis, Bussman, Littlefuse, and Blue Sea. My gripe is not more self contained. Buy a fuse/breaker, relay or solenoid, fuse or multi block, then switched and relays. Egis and Littlefuse have some cool stuff with sealed Metricpack outputs, so between that and Bussman, i have options. I dont need much though, so trying to keep the footprint small and fit in the battery box and maybe one of those wing lockers. I'll take any excuse to add more Deutsch and Metripack connectors to the horrible wiring that LR and the PO gave me.
 

erover82

Well-known member
that's correct. they do have a combined fuse/relay

The water-resistant individual fuse and relay boxes which clip together? Do they offer another product which combines both?

71sZxLgoIhL.jpg
 

Caligula

Well-known member
On past builds, I have used "painless relay bank" and "carling switches", extremely clean install and professional outcome, all circuits color coded and labelled.
never had a need for power inverter, thus could not offer a comment other than they use A LOT of battery energy. often times you need to keep your engine running when using a power inverter.
 

Overlander

Well-known member
Callsign: KM4BOR
On past builds, I have used "painless relay bank" and "carling switches", extremely clean install and professional outcome, all circuits color coded and labelled.
never had a need for power inverter, thus could not offer a comment other than they use A LOT of battery energy. often times you need to keep your engine running when using a power inverter.
that's why aux power systems need to be designed around the anticipated use, not the reverse. I have a 2k watt inverter and 200 ah agm. a 1500 watt appliance used over a few minutes time only uses a couple amp hours, but the system has be designed to carry a massive load regardless.

But none of this is in scope for the OP in this thread
 

rocky

NAS-ROW Addict
Bluesea guilty. I have their usb outlet in a contoura switch spot plus two 12v outlets.
originally the 12v was for an Arb fridge and GPS. But iPad/iPhone have overtaken gps duties from a standalone Garmin.
My battery could do with added terminals for the winch, auxiliary circuits just for neatness.
 

sgo70

Member
Not sure if I'm allowed to link to a different site but I came across this a while back:


They have smaller boxes as well or you can use half as power and half as ground, the guy gives really good detail about his set up.

Sean
 

WreckITFrank

Technical Excellence Contributor
Not sure if I'm allowed to link to a different site but I came across this a while back:


They have smaller boxes as well or you can use half as power and half as ground, the guy gives really good detail about his set up.

Sean
I am familiar with bussman's and have done one before, they are pretty fantastic. That is a good option, especially when converted to 5 relay and 10 fuse setup. Thanks for the share.
 

MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
I have the small bussmn in my 90 running fuses and relays under the hood. In my 110, I’m running the larger one. I love them. It’s in my seat box of 110. My drivers seat is battery, battery/winch disconnect(located on the outside front), and circuit beaker leading to passenger side where Bussman is and all the magic happens :). this is larger,10 relay one. Right now I have 2xhigh amperage CBs external, one for trailer brake and one for air compressor as those are 40/50 amp. But here is the Bussman. Will have 4x relays for seat heaters, 3x lights, then stuff like fridge, linear acuators and stuff. Seat heaters robbed me :) just finishing design of interior harness. On front footwell of passenger I made a surface mounted 40a aux Anderson plug port, typically for air compressor.
 

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sgo70

Member
Curious what you are using the linear actuators for? I was trying to figure out how to use them for my transfer case but gave up and went with the cable conversion.

Sean
 

Mattarm

Well-known member
not trying to hijack but I have this setup that was picked up for a project many moons ago that never came to be. free to anyone that wants it. you pay shipping. PM me to avoid polluting this thread.
 

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