Ask the Experts - Oil leak? Defender 110 ex mod

Northwind

Well-known member
Just started leaking on me a couple of weeks ago, few drops hear and their after I’ve been out and about.
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Checked all the fluids and they are fine. Leak doesn’t seem to be at the plug but looks like its coming from further up and then dripping down. Main gearbox leak? Any insight appreciated before I run to the shop again. Thanks
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Is the oil clean\clear or black and dirty ? Oil leaks are easy, Trace forward and up until you find the source. With a military 2.5 natural oil tends to come from every possible source if the trucks are run @ highway speeds. Only engines I've seen that leak worse than a 2 stroke Detroit.
 

Northwind

Well-known member
Oil is Black, I found it leaking via the breather hose but not sure about the leak pictured since its under the truck and looks like in a tight space I cant get to.
 

Northwind

Well-known member
Getting out in the daylight and looking closer might be more helpful vs a dark garage in the evening. Only a few drops hear and their but still leaking.
 

Northwind

Well-known member
Thinking i might power wash the engine at the local car wash to help pinpoint this better, thoughts? Thanks
 

Northwind

Well-known member
Will know in a few days, even a bigger problem as of last Thursday, Stopped to fill the truck with gas in the morning. Shifting from 2nd to 3rd and all of a sudden i hear this clunk. Would shift into gear but all i would hear is a clanking noise, like marbles rolling around. and no power to the wheels. Needless to say i called Haggerty and tow truck dispatched to the repair shop. They thought it could be the axel or the transmission. I did some research and hoping its just the clutch. Love the truck but at this point not sure I’d trust going more than a 20 mile radius from home.
 

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
Lock up the diff lock on your xfer case and see if it drives. If so, you blew a half shaft or CV joint. Much easier than a clutch repair.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
Did the transfercase lever pop out of gear ?I
Did you try shifting it into diff lock so you could continue driving it ?

Stock drive flanges are softer than the axles and tend to strip the spines out of them.
They are meant to be the weak point in the drive train to keep other parts
from breaking. They are the easiest drive train component to change, you don't even need a jack.
 
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Northwind

Well-known member
Yes. It popped out of gear when i was shifting into gear, thought how weird and then when i shifted it back into 3rd i heard this sound like something broke and loose marbles rolling around when i tried to shift back into gear. I didn’t try shifting into the diff lock, totally freaked out so i just rolled to the side of the road and called the tow followed by my wife to come pick me up ( i was only a few miles from home). I dont know shit about these trucks and rely heavily on what i get from these boards ( here and defendersource). As well as a few guys I’ve talked to. Appreciate everyone’s expertise and insight. Hopefully i will hear from the shop today and keep you all posted.
 

NPT90

Well-known member
Maybe the selector...

As far as the oil leak maybe the pan, UV dye is a great suggestion
 

Northwind

Well-known member
Just found out it needs a new clutch (as i suspected) and now the shop is trying to find the source of the leak.
 

Northwind

Well-known member
if your doing a clutch Tseals, block to clutch housing and rear main are all pretty much MUST dos if you wan to eliminate oi leaks
Thanks for the insight will talk to the shop about it today , sounds like the leaks are coming from the Vacuum pump and oil filter adapter, when it rains it pours!
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Thanks for the insight will talk to the shop about it today , sounds like the leaks are coming from the Vacuum pump and oil filter adapter, when it rains it pours!


vac pump and oil filter adapter are maybe 30 min of work for both to get the gaskets/orings replaced. Expect most non-defender shops to charge you around 2 hours.

The Tseals/rear main and block to clutch housing take hours to do right. You will need the Grey block gasket (not the red one), a tube of black right stuff, an original Dowty marked rear main seal (only available at turners in the uk) and the black rubber Tseals.

Its quite a job and has some very specific steps to get it right.

Good luck!
 
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