Anyone tried these t-posts on a build?

[Tomaco1]

Galvanized Sideframe - Left Hand Side 109 & 110 Station Wagon PLC832G | Rovers North - Land Rover Parts and Accessories Since 1979

LEFT side (driver side) door frame assembly galvanized. High quality sideframe assembly made in the UK. * For Series vehicles note that the door striker holes may need to be modified to accept older style strikers Fits These Vehicles: Model: Notes: Defender 110 SW Series...

www.roversnorth.com

 

[Adam]

I'd be curious if YRM makes a similar part. Their prices tend to be pretty competitive, even with shipping.

 

[Z.G]

It is a YRM piece, and the dimensions are pretty shipping-prohibitive, whether here or across the ocean

 

[Tomaco1]

Do they fit? holes line up And all yhat

 

[Z.G]

We've sold 13 sets since last spring, zero returns/warranty claims. I have not personally heard of anyone having issues, but not saying that it's impossible. In my experience any body panel as substantial as a T post may need some massaging.

 

[Tomaco1]

Thanks
You mentioned shipping, how bad is shipping in the US? Say NY.

 

[Z.G]

NY is probably around $150ish via truck to a commercial address. The price of wood has gone through the roof, so the crates we ship in are now around $50-100 in just material

 

[FlyersFan76]

I did not use them but I get just the B pillars for my build. I ended up having Red Door do my rebuild but I did not hear of any issues with them.

 

[CDN38]

Not the easiest think to crate and ship for sure. Here's how the Genuine ones arrived before I stripped and galvanized mine. The factory ones fit like a glove, but I think now they are SUPER expensive. Being able to get the YRM part for under $1000+shipping would be a good investment, even if you need to tweak it a bit.

 

[Z.G]

Not the easiest think to crate and ship for sure. Here's how the Genuine ones arrived before I stripped and galvanized mine. The factory ones fit like a glove, but I think now they are SUPER expensive. Being able to get the YRM part for under $1000+shipping would be a good investment, even if you need to tweak it a bit.

View attachment 15676

I miss the days where the genuine ones were like $400 each... around the same time seat boxes were $300, bulkheads were $2k...

 

[CDN38]

...ahhhh... the good old days. I think I paid about $800 for the pair.

I remember being at the factory watching them build seatboxes, took about 10 minutes to complete one on the jig. I wonder where all the jigs for the parts went to, or are they just sitting on a shelf somewhere?

 

[rocky]

I’ve got a few YRM pieces and if their seat box pieces are aluminum or galvy, it’s a no brainer in my book when that time comes.

 

[O2batsea]

If it's like the other YRM stuff, "tweaking" will be understatement.

 

[Shearpin]

Going to have to do these one day - mine are rotten.

Anyone used a 3M type automotive adhesive for the install? Without welding equipment and skills I have often wondered if these adhesives are a viable alternative for the hobbyist or still very much a factory floor thing.

 

[CDN38]

No welding is required to swap out side frames. Unbolt and grind away old fasteners, (plus drill out the rivets on the dog leg panels), reverse to install. It's not too difficult a job, but it's time consuming to get through all the rusty fasteners, all the additional cleanup of what you end up uncovering.

 

[Shearpin]

Good to hear there is no welding required...

Workshop video on the install... I like these under tarp types - I can relate....

 

[CDN38]

That pretty much sums it up, good video of the process.. Like I said... it's just a lot of time and tedious work. When you fit them in you will always have alignment issues to massage over.

 

[Shearpin]

Reviving a dead post and a bit of a repost - apologies…. I thought I may find an answer here.

Given the cost, I decided to work with what I have rather than replacing the sills and pillar - that‘s a long term goal.

Anyways, while attempting to address some rust I broke the head off the lower seatbelt fastener on the B-pillar - the triangular seatbelt bracket that bolts to the sill and b-pillar. I have resisted the urge to punch it out with a hammer and find out what I am dealing with. Is this a captive nut welded into the b-pillar? Or, am I in luck and is it a captive nut on a plate that I can remove and replace through the access hole in the bottom? Anyone have a part number for the nut plate?

Thanks again,
Henry