Another R2.8 Install (long BH R380 version)

donb

Well-known member
I didn’t want to dilute anyone else’s build threads so I figured I would start my own.

I will try and keep content to items I haven’t read about before and ones that I was confused about.

pics show the removal of the 200tdi and stumpy R380. Im going to miss this setup but an extra 100lb/ft of torques should help. I decided tom take the whole front clip off as I am going to paint the galvanized chassis for a cleaner look and better protection.
 

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donb

Well-known member
These are the engine mounts from Chad at Quick Draw. Nicely done. Hard to cut thru to shape the size but worth the price to not have to fab something from scratch.
 

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donb

Well-known member
So the clutch kit that came with the long BH kit didn’t work. When I got the whole thing last May (2020) I never bothered to check. I ordered a new LUF kit from RockAuto part number (05-029). I plugged in a 1982 Dodge W250 318 for a vehicle. The part number on Chad’s site is different but the 6 bolts matched the re-drilled R2.8 flywheel.
 

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donb

Well-known member
Pic of the engine mount and gearbox about to go to engine. Then the lump with LT230Q 1.2 that I had with the 200tdi. I have 4.1 gears and 35” SSR’s.
 

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donb

Well-known member
I used a combo of the engine crane and I-beam to get the whole thing in. It took a lot of moving little by little but overall went well for a solo mission.
 

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Tomaco1

Well-known member
Does this just mount right up to the 200tdi frame side engine mounts, with some type of rubber in there of course

CD305B12-38E2-452F-8084-4C951C680C6D.png
 

donb

Well-known member
Does this just mount right up to the 200tdi frame side engine mounts, with some type of rubber in there of course

View attachment 19971

I'm still figuring out engine placement but it seems there could be a bolt in engine mount made for a 200tdi chassis. I will probably just cut the old mounts and weld new ones in as the QuickDraw frame mounts are wider and have more surface area.
 

donb

Well-known member
it’s tight between the oil cooler and PS box. I’m trying to figure what angle the engine should end up at. More angled back helps with clearance but I’m guessing close to level - 0deg is the best. Took a quick pic of RH side - going to tough with exhaust and driveshaft on the same side but should be enough room.
 

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donb

Well-known member
Going back to Tom’s post/question. This is the LH side and it’s pretty close location wise with the stock 200tdi frame mount.
 

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donb

Well-known member
I’m just going to cut the old mounts out and weld in the QuickDraw jobbers. The QD mounts are wider and it wasn’t too bad cutting and flap disking the old mounts out. I wore a respirator tho with the galvanized metal.
 

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dkemm

Well-known member
thank you for all the details on the motor mounts! That has probably been the biggest question mark in my mind - once my 2.8 arrives.
 

donb

Well-known member
Is that a 4bolt PS box or a 6 bolt? and you are right that is close !
It's a 4 bolt so it's as small as it can be. I might look into the external PS box but then I have to mess with all that.

I can clear the piping by bringing the engine up - but don't want the angle to be to far to dipped towards the rear. Any ideas of what the engine angle should be?

I feel like I can get a fingers worth of space (3/4") with some messing around.
 

donb

Well-known member
Nice garage setup!
Thanks - we had it built a couple years ago. Kind of a bummer at the time but so glad we did it before Covid and lumber price hikes! The I beam was a great add-on and happy that the architect came up with it.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
a fingers worth is fine. i think a slight angle to wards the rear would be fine and prob make it easier to bleed coolant anyway. there is prob a value in the engine docs ?
 

donb

Well-known member
a fingers worth is fine. i think a slight angle to wards the rear would be fine and prob make it easier to bleed coolant anyway. there is prob a value in the engine docs ?
The Cummins doc's I have looked at haven't shown a value but I'll search again. I agree a few degrees shouldn't make a difference and good point on making it easier to bleed the coolant.
 

donb

Well-known member
I’ve been messing with this for about a week but thinking I’m ready to burn in the frame mounts. Engine is at 2.5 degrees down but just on springs (no shocks) and no body parts or winch on the front. Hard to find place to measure the side to side but a small flat section in the rear shows less than a degree off and the frame tilt is very close as well.
 

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donb

Well-known member
Pictures of the engine mounts.

I cut off the old 200tdi ones wearing a respirator and flapped disked the area. I’ll weld with a respirator but hopefully most of the galvanization is removed.
 

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