4.6 GEMS Long Block

[SMac]

Looking for a good 4.6 GEMS long block, and would prefer it be as close to Taunton, MA as possible to cut shipping costs. Looking to have The Wedge Shop rebuild one for the ole' NAS, and they may be fresh out of GEMS cores. Thanks.

 

[evilfij]

I thought the only difference between GEMS and Bosch blocks was the plate for the sensor and that’s just tacked on?

 

[SMac]

Thats the only difference I'm tracking, but then again, I'm pretty sure 90% of this forum, and you, knows more about these trucks than I do so that's not saying much! I'd rather be 100% plug and play throwing this amount of coin on another Buick motor. If it comes down to tracking another $1K to have a GEMS core, I think some grinding and tack welds are more than doable....

 

[evilfij]

Ya, and I think the earlier blocks are less likely to have issues. But was asking as finding a bosch block may be easier.

 

[erover82]

P38s were given the best blocks. The risk is that any block can be exposed to abuse, and it's not obvious at first glance. My issue with the 4.6 is that the cylinder extends below the water jacket and thus isn't cooled evenly.

 

[rocky]

I‘ve been to TWS as they were doing a rebuild. I like those guys.
Is anyone supplying new blocks, heads etc?

 

[SMac]

I've been trying to order a Turner 4.6 for over a year, but I guess they have some virus problem or something like that holding them up.... I've been told to stay away from AB and Cannibal, and the few reputable local boys are out 3-6 months before they can touch the project. I'm not tracking any NOS long blocks anywhere. TWS seem to have a solid reputation and can have the long block to me in 3-8 weeks.

My 4.0 finally died at 200K, and other than puking every fluid out within minutes of fill, most likely has a slipped liner(s). Build will include flanged liners, warm cam, worked heads + oversize valves, Mark Adam's computer magic, shortened intakes, etc. I'd love to be able to merge and keep speed on our western hills AND keep it all Rover. I do plan on a RRC fan and 4/5 row radiator to help in the cooling department.

Any tips from the pros?

 

[rocky]

I get noisy tappets when warm. Need to get serious about that sometime. Happy with my Allisport radiator with 13.5 Spal fans. Just make sure you get the top hose pointing straight out otherwise they’ll give you one with a 90 degree bend in it.

 

[jymmiejamz]

I've been trying to order a Turner 4.6 for over a year, but I guess they have some virus problem or something like that holding them up.... I've been told to stay away from AB and Cannibal, and the few reputable local boys are out 3-6 months before they can touch the project. I'm not tracking any NOS long blocks anywhere. TWS seem to have a solid reputation and can have the long block to me in 3-8 weeks.

My 4.0 finally died at 200K, and other than puking every fluid out within minutes of fill, most likely has a slipped liner(s). Build will include flanged liners, warm cam, worked heads + oversize valves, Mark Adam's computer magic, shortened intakes, etc. I'd love to be able to merge and keep speed on our western hills AND keep it all Rover. I do plan on a RRC fan and 4/5 row radiator to help in the cooling department.

Any tips from the pros?

I’ve installed a bunch of AB long and short blocks over the years and have never had an issue. I can’t imagine trying to do a warranty claim with Turner. They’d probably want you to send the block back for inspection if you had an issue, which I’m sure would be at your cost.

A slipped liner has no symptoms other than noise. Do you mean you have a cracked block?

 

[evilfij]

I mean, I would get a junkyard disco engine and take it apart, fix what it needs, and put it back in. I have a bunch of spare engines which, in my view, has kept the ones in the rovers reasonably happy.

 

[SMac]

Ah it could be a million things I suppose; liners, tappets, etc. Lots of engine in distress noises, including multiple ticking sounds, some which seem to be louder when you’re under the rig. Either way, I’ve overheated the engine repeatedly for the last 20K miles, and it is a sludgy mess inside the valley and heads. Also have reduced power after the engine gets to temp, at minimum the crucifix seals are shot, etc etc. Don’t want to throw anything more at this.

Really debated an LS but decided to keep her all Rover, and its something I can do fairly quickly. Don’t want to mess with a pull out either...don’t have time to chase small issues.

An AB long block 4.6 is only a $1-2K less than a warmed over Wedge long block.

 

[blueboy]

Have you checked with RPi Engineering? Their website will show out of stock as each one is quoted and built on an individual basis. I’ve had a 4.6 from them in my RRC for many miles. Could be an option.

 

[SMac]

Did chat with Ian at RPI. Didn’t see anything proprietary that would justify his $3-4K price differential on like-for-like builds over the other reputable shops. Of course the exchange rate is not helping matters.

 

[UnfrozenCaveman]

Good luck with your search!

Woody built the 4.6 that I put in the '97 a few years back.

It's great ... but with his cam, doesn't like extended idle periods...like the three or four minutes at the bank drive up. It will kick out a "random misfire" code on a regular basis.

Sounds and feels fine to me, but the computer thinks it knows better.

Clear the code and all is well.

 

[SMac]

Interesting and thanks for that info. They claim they don't have the time to grind their own cam profiles anymore, so they're dropping plug and play cams from various aftermarket sources. Thinking of going with the Crower 229 and whatever magic they propose on the rest of the valvetrain.

 

[UnfrozenCaveman]

Ah, interesting Wow, I keep forgetting that it was 2016 when I did that !