My 300Tdi started leaking a bit of oil from the front necessitating new seals. Since the front was coming off a new timing belt was in order. I did what I have done in the past. Lock up the timing wheel, pin the IP, swap out the tensioner and install the new timing belt. My first clue that things were wrong was that I couldn't get the camshaft timing mark dead on. We buttoned it up and took it for a test drive. The EGT was way hotter than perviously noted. Thinking we did something wrong we locked up the flywheel, IP, etc, etc, etc and buttoned it up again. Same result which was both frustrating and disappointing. I left it to sit while I went on vacation.
Back home with a clear mind I went back at it again.
First off I decided I wasn't going to remove the radiator and have to mess with the oil lines dripping everywhere. Round one and two I used the giant wrench device Robert Davis sells. This time I used a Cornwell Stubby Impact which just fit between the giant crankshaft nut and the frame cross piece. That saved me well over an hour of time.
Second I didn't lock the flywheel. Instead I aligned the crankshaft woodruff key with the arrow on the timing case. I then lined up the camshaft timing hashmark and pinned the IP in place.
Third I started installing the timing belt first on the crankshaft pulley, then onto the camshaft pulley, then the IP and finally over the tensioner.
Before buttoning it up I looked where the flywheel timing slot was and it was NOT centered in the hole. It was slightly off to one side explaining why the camshaft timing mark was half a tooth off.
I put back on the timing cover, serp belt, fan, shroud, etc and took her for a successful test. I have no idea why the slot is slightly off but I won't be locking up flywheels when doing this anymore. I'll use the timing case marker and compare where the flywheel slot is. As a point of reference if you have a ZF (automatic transmission) you have to use the timing case marking.
I apologize for not taking any photos but I hope this helps somebody out when they do their next timing belt change.
Back home with a clear mind I went back at it again.
First off I decided I wasn't going to remove the radiator and have to mess with the oil lines dripping everywhere. Round one and two I used the giant wrench device Robert Davis sells. This time I used a Cornwell Stubby Impact which just fit between the giant crankshaft nut and the frame cross piece. That saved me well over an hour of time.
Second I didn't lock the flywheel. Instead I aligned the crankshaft woodruff key with the arrow on the timing case. I then lined up the camshaft timing hashmark and pinned the IP in place.
Third I started installing the timing belt first on the crankshaft pulley, then onto the camshaft pulley, then the IP and finally over the tensioner.
Before buttoning it up I looked where the flywheel timing slot was and it was NOT centered in the hole. It was slightly off to one side explaining why the camshaft timing mark was half a tooth off.
I put back on the timing cover, serp belt, fan, shroud, etc and took her for a successful test. I have no idea why the slot is slightly off but I won't be locking up flywheels when doing this anymore. I'll use the timing case marker and compare where the flywheel slot is. As a point of reference if you have a ZF (automatic transmission) you have to use the timing case marking.
I apologize for not taking any photos but I hope this helps somebody out when they do their next timing belt change.
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