300Tdi P-Gasket

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
Looks like this is a job for this coming week. I will need to look through my records to remember if the gasket was changed before being put in the truck, but it leaks pretty badly when the engine is cold.

It seems an OK job for me to try to do on my own. But I'm wondering about the gasket itself. I hear there is a metal one that works better than the original. But then the question is, what brand? This is one of those tiny items I want to pay the most for so I get the most out of it.
 

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
Javelinadave's opinion is........ "To deep to go cheap". Go with the genuine part and don't fret about it needing to be redone in 4 months when the off brand fails.
 

jymmiejamz

Founding Member
Callsign: KN4JHI
I've done two of these and both times I had issues with broken bolts. One was on the short stud that broke, which was not a huge deal, just had to drill and tap. The second time it was one of the long bolts that goes through the alternator bracket. It had rusted inside of the bracket, not the block. I could rotate the whole bracket because the bolt was loose in the block, but seized in the bracket. I really damaged the bracket trying to get it out, but fortunately it sealed when I was all done.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
LOL... I'm not even sure what I'm asking. I guess I just want to make sure the PN actually gets me the metal gasket, not the paper style. Once I've got that down, I'll click on the one that says "Land Rover". I'm just tired of not getting what I thought I ordered, or whatever. Opening the package and having the wrong thing, but realizing that it was my fault because I ordered on the computer and couldn't hold it in my hand before paying for it.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
fwiw have had better luck using a 3/8 impact getting the bolts out. The hammer action jars them loose and doesnt shear the bolts. Using a socket and wratchet I've broken several bolts.
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
OK, gasket ordered, so I'll be cracking things open in the next week or so. (As long as the RRC doesn't die as I drive it instead.)

Anything I should know about doing the project? Seems like just a lot of bolts and hassle, but a simple project.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
When you remove the housing make sure that it's dead flat. You can use a flat piece of Emery paper on a table to make sure it's 100% flat before reinstalling.

The engine side is pitted and ugly you can fill in the pits with JB weld and then file flat.


Tldr, make sure everything is flat
 

broncoduecer

Technical Excellence Contributor
I actually had to get a new housing because the metal had receded enough that there was no real way to get it to seal. Previously I used the metal gasket with a spray coating of hylomar.
The new housing was much thicker and metal gasket as discussed was used. I also put a bit of yamabond on. Been good so far.
 

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RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
This reminds me.... I ordered the gasket and a whole box of other stuff from Rovahfarm two weeks ago, and I haven't heard anything back! Going to have to call him on Monday, I guess.
 

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
This reminds me.... I ordered the gasket and a whole box of other stuff from Rovahfarm two weeks ago, and I haven't heard anything back! Going to have to call him on Monday, I guess.
I gave up on them long ago for this very reason. #callzackforallofyourroverpartsneeds
 

RBBailey

NAS-ROW Addict
Callsign: KF7KFZ
LOL! Just got an email from UPS. Will be here tomorrow. I really did totally forget about it, glad he pulled through!
 
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