300 tdi T seal

[supertreeman]

While I have the engine out and on a stand I’m guessing I should replace the t seals. Already planning to replace rear main with the Turner seal..

Looks like newer rubber style are in there now and one is cut below the surface instead of 1mm proud as I’ve read is protocol. Not sure if this would cause leak or not.

is there a way to determine if t seal is leaking? When I pull the rear main I should be able to tell if that was a leak source, anyway to isolate t seal without removal?

my questions are
1. While engine is out it would be foolish to not replace the t seals right?

2. is there a good write up or how to somewhere? Can’t seem to find anything that technical

3. planning to use feeler gauge in place of special LR tool. Any other suggestions?

thanks in advance

 

[Napalm00]

1. Yes do it

2. Not really. I prefer to install them lightly coated in black right stuff. Make sure after they're inserted that they don't twist.

3. Nope thats fine

 

[Tomaco1]

While I have the engine out and on a stand I’m guessing I should replace the t seals. Already planning to replace rear main with the Turner seal..

Looks like newer rubber style are in there now and one is cut below the surface instead of 1mm proud as I’ve read is protocol. Not sure if this would cause leak or not.

is there a way to determine if t seal is leaking? When I pull the rear main I should be able to tell if that was a leak source, anyway to isolate t seal without removal?

my questions are
1. While engine is out it would be foolish to not replace the t seals right?

2. is there a good write up or how to somewhere? Can’t seem to find anything that technical

3. planning to use feeler gauge in place of special LR tool. Any other suggestions?

thanks in advance

I think I have the t-seal tool you can borrow if it’s the same as a 200

 

[supertreeman]

Thanks for the advice. I think I agree 100% gotta do it.

@Napalm00 thanks for the tip about the right stuff.

@Tomaco1 Id love to borrow that tool if you have it. Sending you a PM.

Ive also read on some other landy site to put the bearing cap in the freezer to help fit the seals easier. Any logic to this? Everything I read talks about what a nightmare of a job this is. Im hoping that this is based on the engine being in the vehicle and since mine is out and there is easy access this job wont be so bad. Seems pretty straightforward one access is gained. Am I missing something?

 

[Napalm00]

Bearing cap in the freezer will help yes. It really isn't that hard of a job it's just easy to fuck up. Last time I did it I went through two sets of seals.

If you do end up putting the bearing cap into the freezer the night before and then installing make sure that you allow the bearing cap to come to room temperature before torquing it

 

[lcdck]

Having the guides would be a huge help getting the T seals installed. If you can't borrow them, make them or have them made.

 

[supertreeman]

Replaced the seals today. Not terribly difficult with engine in stand. Turning the engine upside down was kind of a PIA solo.

Thanks Tomaco for lending me the Seal Guides. Of course the bolt holes didn’t line up with the flywheel housing still attacked to the block so I clamped them in place instead.

Seals seemed to go in straight fingers crossed there’s no leaks. Lightly coated with right stuff before I slid them in.

Interestingly the old seals were not as thick as the replacements .

 

[Napalm00]

Looks perfect