1995 110 300tdi not starting...

Snoble2

Member
I have searched the forums and tried everything that I could find related to the issues that I am having. Of course I could have still missed something or not tried something that will fix the issue, which is what brings me here...

I have only had the 110 for two weeks now. I replaced the head unit with an updated version and I have installed LED headlights - I also replaced the battery with a new one. That is all I have done to it. At some point after swapping the head unit, it quit working. I tested and replaced fuses and then it was good to go again. A few days later, I had no power to the gauge cluster, cig lighter, rear wiper control. Radio, exterior lights and dome lights working fine. I checked fuses in cabin and in engine bay. Replaced any that did not show 12.5V. I have taken the steering column surrounds off and the gauge pulled back. I also reset the turbo timer, although I would have assumed the battery replacement did that?

The ignition switch does not move and is not loose and the wires were all secure. I have ordered a new switch in the meantime so that I would not have to wait if that is in fact the issue. I bought new relays today to replace the starter fuse, etc... so we will see if that is it? I also noticed what I would normally think is an immobilizer or anti-theft red blinking light next to the hazard switch, but I would be shocked if my particular vehicle had an immobilizer. In case, I disconnected it, still no success.

I have watched videos and read through electrical manuals with no luck. I am definitely a layman, but have tried to resolve on my own without success. I appreciate any ideas or insight.
 

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
The only thing that has me suspicious is the battery change. The radio and the headlights should do anything unless you knocked something loose. When you say it doesn't start are you saying it doesn't turn over or it doesn't run? Does your truck have an alarm? We will fix this but it may take some back and forth.
 

Snoble2

Member
The only thing that has me suspicious is the battery change. The radio and the headlights should do anything unless you knocked something loose. When you say it doesn't start are you saying it doesn't turn over or it doesn't run? Does your truck have an alarm? We will fix this but it may take some back and forth.
It did this the morning that I ended up changing the battery...maybe jumped the gun, but the previous one was old and I removed some corrosion. It doesn’t do anything-as if I’m not even turning the key. There is no sound or lights or attempt to turn over. I’m going to give direct power to the starter shortly to rule that out. Thank you!
 

Snoble2

Member
blinking red light is whats says it to me. 100% not stock . find what it connects to and remove it
I’m with you-I couldn’t figure it out and it was fed from a positive wire that looked spliced from a direct power supply. I have no idea what it was for, so I clipped the wires.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
I’m with you-I couldn’t figure it out and it was fed from a positive wire that looked spliced from a direct power supply. I have no idea what it was for, so I clipped the wires.


gonna to have to trace that back to whatever it was and see what its wired to. your gonna need a wiring diagram .


check for 12v at the injection pump fuel stop solenoid with the key in the run position. if you dont see it there thats a good place to work back from.
 

javelinadave

Administrator
Staff member
There is no sound or lights or attempt to turn over. I’m going to give direct power to the starter shortly to rule that out. Thank you!
Sounds like a dead battery, your positive battery cable has a break in its circuit somewhere or no grounding of the negative cable. Are you sure there isn't a kill switch somewhere in the battery box or seat box?
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
sounds like cutting power to immobilizer left it in open circuit mode. Try running a new solenoid signal wire from spade on starter to spade on ignition switch. This will bypass the wiring loom and starter should work as intended. This would work as a temporary fix while you sort whatever has been done.
 

Snoble2

Member
sounds like cutting power to immobilizer left it in open circuit mode. Try running a new solenoid signal wire from spade on starter to spade on ignition switch. This will bypass the wiring loom and starter should work as intended. This would work as a temporary fix while you sort whatever has been done.
So I did find out that there is no power via the trigger wire, but I did get 12.5V on the actual starter. If I understand what you’re saying, then make direct contact from where that trigger wire was on the starter to the spot on ignition starter and I should be able to start her up. If that doesn’t work, any ideas?
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
So I did find out that there is no power via the trigger wire, but I did get 12.5V on the actual starter. If I understand what you’re saying, then make direct contact from where that trigger wire was on the starter to the spot on ignition starter and I should be able to start her up. If that doesn’t work, any ideas?
That would test the starter, if the key is on and the injection pump solenoid gets 12v when key is on, it should fire up. What I was proposing is a semi perm fix, running a wire from the trigger spade on the ign switch to the spade on the starter.
 
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Snoble2

Member
Well guess what...as I dug further into the dash, I found an aftermarket immobilizer installed. I followed the red/white wire from the ignition switch to the immobilizer. I cut it, put it in the same section of the relay...the engine now cranks but doesn’t turn over. Obviously if I trace each wire from the ignition switch and connect to the relay, it would all be as it was? I must have crossed a wire at some point because I tried starting it once and it smoked badly.
 

Uncle Douglas

Well-known member
Callsign: delete
See if with the switch in run position you have power to the solenoid on the back of your injection pump.
That is an electromagnetic valve, It opens with 12v and allows fuel into injection pump. When you turn the key off its what stops the engine. Electrically,your engine is dirt simple. If you have it spinning over, that fuel shut off solenoid is the only other electrical hurdle.
 
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