110 Rear Stub Axle Removal (Drums)

dcg

Well-known member
I’m trying to remove the stub axles from the rear (drums) of my 110. I’m not sure if I want to replace them or clean them up, so I’m trying not to damage them. I’ve tried a wood block and a ball peen. I tried just the hammer around the flange to crack the rust but stopped when I slightly damaged the top of the flange. Will a chisel and hammer work from the back of the flange?
 

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Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
Deadblow hammer and heat. Or a broomstick good idea !

You just need leverage.
 

Roverman2010

Well-known member
I should have said for the broon stick was for the stub axle not flying about after giving it a good twa?ing with the hammer and lump of wood lol
 

dcg

Well-known member
That’s what I figured. I will give it a try. Do these hubs look good enough to save?
 

Roverman2010

Well-known member
From your picture's how the oil seal groove on the left one? if the treads for the lock nuts are clean and if you had no oil leaks before go for it, you are the one there, and you are now a pro at removing them lol
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
They look usable. When you replace the hub seals make sure you use the double lip version
 

dcg

Well-known member
Broom handle trick worked well. Doused the joint in WD40 and moved the wood block further down towards the threads. Popped off with a few wacks. I’m annoyed that I dinged the one... but all part of the learning process, right?

Double lipped version noted. The truck has been sitting for 21 years. Axle off and stub axles exposed in a garage. I don’t think it was leaking when I pulled them apart. Threads and channels are very clean/sharp. I’ll clean them up and post photos.
 

dcg

Well-known member
OK... I submerged these in evapo-rust. In hindsight, I probably would have not done that. It removed the polish off of the surface and very slightly dulled the sharp edges. Are they still serviceable?
 

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MountainD

Technical Excellence Contributor
If they are smooth then I’d use them. If they are more matte and slightly not smooth, the will wear quicker. Feel with finger and a smear of oil. They are not hard to replace if they leak—so if they felt smooth, I’d probably use them.
 

dcg

Well-known member
Definitely more on the slightly matte side. I'm going to replace them. Is it worth buying Genuine? If not, who makes an equivalent replacement? These are FRC3132s.
 

Roverman2010

Well-known member
About time lol, as long as there are no rough edges re-use. Maybe polish them up a bit with some brasso or the like.
 

dcg

Well-known member
No. I'll take a look. I have read a few writeups on the swap and thought about it. The disc swap cost is probably less as I need drum backing plates. I'm focused on keeping this truck original.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
I personally wouldn't replace those, they look fine.

When I converted to disc brakes in the rear I used the cheapest aftermarket britpart stub axles, been a few years they are fine
 

UnfrozenCaveman

Well-known member
A quick polish with some emery tape ... geez, now I can't remember ... 600 ... 800 ??? darn fine anyway, might bring that surface back without taking much metal off.
 

Napalm00

Technical Excellence Contributor
you dont need a mirror polished surface, the only thing that rides on that is the seal. The bearing wont care if its matte
 

dcg

Well-known member
Thanks everyone. I'll reuse the stub axles. It has also been suggested that speedy sleeve can be used on a worn distance piece.
 
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