110 Dual Fuel Tank Question

[belgian]

Let's see if somebody knows this part/ part number.
My Camel Trophy 110 was outfitted with dual fuel tanks for the event.

On the seat box (between the passenger legs) is the switch over lever. Which connects to the "valve" in these pictures.

Does anybody know this part/ where to source this? I currently have a small air leak somewhere prior to the fuel filter. So I am replacing the mechanical lift pump/lift pump seal next. If the small leak still exists, I'm assuming it comes from this valve.

I did some research, and it seems that most switch over systems have different mechanisms? The work was obviously done by Land Rover Special vehicles, so must be a mechanism Land Rover used?

Also, I know I can probably add an electrical fuel pump in the back to see where the leak is -very wise advise from Robert Davis-, but at this point I would like the keep the Camel as original as possible. (And the fuel pump would be useless if I use my secondary tank).

Thanks!

 

[RDavisinVA]

That switch over valve is NLA.
The problem with the original plastic fuel lines is they get brittle with age and split, especially if bent.
For reliability, I do not run them and never will.
I use rubber and/or metal line only.

If you google 3 way fuel valve or fuel change over valve, you'll see dozens of valuable alternatives.
I use a 12V electric solenoid change over valve with a relay that has an 87 and 87a terminal that will change the signal from the fuel tank sender to match the fuel level in the tank you are fueling from.

You didn't mention if your fuel was gas or diesel, but if it is diesel, you'll need a second 3 way to accommodate the return line.

 

[belgian]

That switch over valve is NLA.
The problem with the original plastic fuel lines is they get brittle with age and split, especially if bent.
For reliability, I do not run them and never will.
I use rubber and/or metal line only.

If you google 3 way fuel valve or fuel change over valve, you'll see dozens of valuable alternatives.
I use a 12V electric solenoid change over valve with a relay that has an 87 and 87a terminal that will change the signal from the fuel tank sender to match the fuel level in the tank you are fueling from.

You didn't mention if your fuel was gas or diesel, but if it is diesel, you'll need a second 3 way to accommodate the return line.

I knew I could rely on you for an answer. Thank you very much.

Regarding the fuel lines, I already updated the ones in the engine compartment with a clear diesel rated fuel line (hence how I know the air is coming in before the fuel filter). And while doing this I installed your twist on fuel filter. So much nicer not to have to deal with the old "sandwich style" Thank you!

It is indeed a diesel (2.5 NA).

 

[DefendersNW]

Valve is serviceable/rebuildable - I've rebuilt/repaired one on the CT 110 we have in the shop on occasion. On our truck the leak was outbound from the spare tank itself - needed the seams closed back up.

Fuel air leaks are usually loss of seal in the crush fittings at the olives - work hardening doesn't help the fittings stay sealed if you use it...

 

[jymmiejamz]

If the small leak still exists, I'm assuming it comes from this valve.

If you think you have a leak, you should smoke test the system to pinpoint the leak. Any auto shop should have a smoke tester. You will have to pay for diag time, but it could end up cheaper than just throwing parts at it.

 

[belgian]

If you think you have a leak, you should smoke test the system to pinpoint the leak. Any auto shop should have a smoke tester. You will have to pay for diag time, but it could end up cheaper than just throwing parts at it.

Thanks, I was unaware of this kind of "smoke testing". Maybe I'll have to go this route. At this point, I want to update the fuel lines anyways, since I do agree with Robert that they get brittle over time. And I've read that the lift pumps on those 2.5's do end up breaking/ leaking. So I'm willing to throw a $40 part at that. If that doesn't work, I'll probably get the smoke test done!

Valve is serviceable/rebuildable - I've rebuilt/repaired one on the CT 110 we have in the shop on occasion. On our truck the leak was outbound from the spare tank itself - needed the seams closed back up.

Fuel air leaks are usually loss of seal in the crush fittings at the olives - work hardening doesn't help the fittings stay sealed if you use it...

Good to know, if I get to that point, I think I'll rebuild it just to keep the original mechanical switch over, versus some electric switch over with solenoids. When you say: "needed the seams closed back up". Do you mean the seams of the tank? or the seams of connections/ fittings?

 

[DefendersNW]

I'll probably get the smoke test done!

As a home alternative you can use UV dye in the fuel. Fill the tank as you add the dye to get a good mixture, run in a bit to use the clean fuel in the system, pressurize the tank a little, (~20psi should be enough) and check for leaks using a UV light.

Good to know, if I get to that point, I think I'll rebuild it just to keep the original mechanical switch over, versus some electric switch over with solenoids. When you say: "needed the seams closed back up". Do you mean the seams of the tank? or the seams of connections/ fittings?

On our CT the tank itself wouldn't hold fuel since the welded seams had small cracks from hard use - med/doctor truck that had seen three events and had a tip over.