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Yes… but a week is about my max in the D90.. me and my dog. No full rack, no extra fuel cans (I do have a side extended fuel tank), and I’ve eliminated just about everything that I don’t actually use often. I sleep in a swag tent, under an awning attached to the truck, and also have a shower...

https://www.royaloverland.com/ Sam @ royaloverland If I remember correctly

He got it from Sam at royal overland… It’s from one of the UK sellers though.. I found one direct but can’t find the receipt anymore

The Nak 8" wheels (DOT version from SDO)... Zak is correct - they don't have the bulge, and are really made for 285 or 315mm tires, but work fine with a 255mm, I would not go smaller on the tires with them though.

Not really for a 255/85... they work fine, I have been running them for a years and a good bit of off-road at 15psi, no issues. the 0 offset is perfect for the truck as well gives you about an 1" or so on either side of added track.

I’ve seen 3 jeep steering box failures in the past year (and 2 new JL frame cracks at the panhard) I’ll keep my old tech

You could be right.. was told it was from a d2.. it was used and not leaking

For the winch a 2 pole cut off is fine (on positive) the truck needs a switch which breaks main power and ign (Bosch makes one, they have 4 spades on the bottom) the load needs to be separated so you need 2 switches, one each for truck and winch (both positive) The winch switch needs to be...

The winch motor will short to ground internally via the casing which is connected to ground via the bumper... just saying Every racing sanctioning body requires a cut on the positive.. (and alt source) cutting ground “may” work but not always.. for instance Albright just changed the wiring...

Yeah don’t load a non running truck.. Doug the electric motors short to ground by design.

The IACV has only has a small range it can compensate for, demand is higher so it stalls... Full load is in the 450 amp range, so the battery has to deliver. Doesn’t matter when you put it in, but it’s how it can deliver and recovery on the alternator output.

2 things here... Both probably have a grounding problem . The disconnect needs to be on the positive side. This is to totally cut power, the winch is grounded at the motor and ground always finds a way. You need solid grounds for the battery and the winch needs to be hooked only to the battery...

D1 and d2 are the same box.. just got it from mike sides... std 4bolt box with the disco drop arm. I’m using this since I like the way the damper mounts better than the RTE kit + RN disco HD link I have on there does (it’s pin to pin vs the GL one uses the std pin to loop damper)...

There is one on the other side... and the steering damper but you right I need to add a nut to it. At the time I put it in it did not come with one.

Do a hei while your there

It’s a 4 bolt, the steering arm is different

Any 4 bolt should work, I used a d2 but in mine

Jimmy for the 110, I sourced a local non leaking d2 box with the disco arm, and used a gywn Lewis conversion kit for it (2 replaceable ball joints) Works great and no leaks... plus the used box was $125, the Gwynn Lewis kit was 200 something and a HD stainless bar as well with ball joints.

I was waiting on those (Defender NW) but same as you haven't seen them yet.. my stock ones look like crap, but maybe i'll just stick in LED bulbs for the time being.