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Bump…

Bump…

Bump…. Open to offers…. Shame to throw in the scrap metal bin.

Prob the easiest is a 609 using F250 unit bearings.

Before you buy LED H4’s make sure there will be enough space in the headlamp bucket for the cooling fins on the back of them, some are quite large. Also, bear in mind there won’t be any air movement so they may get quite hot. Just a thought...

A few updated pics.... Hopefully have it back on the road later this year :)

Bonnet, roof cover & boxes below the door windows all to hid the body lines. Just look for the duct tape sealing up the gaps.

Here are a few thoughts from a British ex-pat living in NA. 1. Never buy a truck from anywhere near the coast, the salt air gets into everything. 2. Farmers are the worst at maintaining there LR's and they live in cow & sheep crap, again rots the chassis. 3. In winter the roads turn into salt...

Ya gotta remember I live in a ski resort, nearest pick-a-part is a 6hr round trip not including finding what you want. The trans was shipped 200miles on the bus... Lol. The AA bellhousing was for me the cheaper option and saved a few road trips ;) Anyway, got all the drive shafts this week so...

Check out my thread for how I did the NV4500 install in my D100.

Think your best option is a set of aftermarket ones. Anything from the UK is RHD & European members are prity thin on the ground on this forum.

You could talk to LRA and see if they'd be willing to sell a TR6060 kit, it looks a sweet conversion. May also work out cheaper than an NV4500 as there getting harder to find in good condition these days and the 6 speed would make a much nicer highway cruiser.

I got a Devon 4x4 comp spec, maybe you could get one through Lucky8 ?

Got my exhaust back from being TIG welded up, fully back purged to ensure no sugar :D

There not perfect, but will do for crawling around the BC bush ;)

Ignore Red90, he only likes diesels !

I looked at every header option I could find, lots of discussion with Nick too and nothing would appear to fit on the drivers side due to the frame rail limitations. If you can get headers sent on a sale/return basis maybe you'll find some that'll fit but I can see the shipping costs soon out...

My front isn't stock, has the center (steady) bearing bolted to the 3 link x-member. I did cut & shut the exhaust manifold 1.5" but that's cause I made the down section too long in the first place. Still need to actually get some Tom Woods drive shafts made up but as the exchange rate is shit...

Got the 'Y' pipe all tacked up & the 3" section to the rear dual section done too.

Happy to be of help, are you using the GM internal slave cylinder ?