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Yea, I actually leave mine in summer mode. Still get heat in winter, never needed a defrost. As for defrost vents.. when I printed the air manifold, the port for defroster is smaller… so they always get air. I’m also created a side window port for passenger window

had a few 100 degree days last week. AC was functional....but not arctic cold. Much better than just windows down, but could have been colder. I did check freon levels and added about half can. havent had any more 100 degree days. Today wasnt hot but it was humid - AC did a great job of...

that hurts... my journey began when I spotted a hairline crack on the rear section..... then poking and prodding...I noticed there was no top section (all around the shock mounts). at that time i ordered a new chassis...as I didnt want to keep chasing cracks and welding instead of driving. When...

got it!... When i was looking for shock options....found these catalogs that outline end type, and compressed / extended lengths. ....Or perhaps welding a custom bracket for the frame mount.

I have had a couple of requests for the STL files. I am happy to share them with all of you. These were specific for my use case (RHD, standard dash)...but will likely work or can be modified (flipped) for LHD. Tees are easy enough to design, but the other specialized (in the dash) pieces took...

Chris, I might be missing something...and while you would lose some leverage -- cant you simply move the Rod bracket down to accomodate the shorter damper? It does increase the working angle of the damper but should give you more turning range...correct?

I have some unused / in boxes seatbelts, but no brackets. came with my rover, decided not to install as I dont use the back seat.

Alex, While not answering your welding question... I do have a rear crossmember that you are welcome to (ABQ, NM). I salvage it when I did my frame swap on my Ninety last year. Was a replacement on a bad frame, so the crossmember is in good shape. I think I also have a single rear outrigger in...

Possibly? I did use the switched valve, but didn’t use the 1-way flow valve on the return

my truck runs at about 178 and MOD heater runs great!...rarely have to use fan higher than 1 or 2 setting. there was/is a "winter / summer" knob on the side of my MOD heater box. not any mention of it in manuals...I end up leaving mine on summer..but there is a winter setting. I noticed that...

Yes, Installed my around sept / october. some of my build pix in my instagram. @braveheart_d90 I also created some 3d print files to meet my needs - stl's available if wanted. Quality - I give 4.5 stars - well made, well packaged Ease of install...much easier than my chassis swap or r2.8...

Thx I’m gonna have to pass with those shipping rates Thx for checking

36” kobalt tool chest set On sale for $498 Get additional 20% off by signing up for Lowe’s credit card $700 set for $400 Blue only on sale P/n’s 5071912 & 5071913

I use the MXT275..mounted on cubby next to seat. all controls are on the handheld mic, which is mounted on the fuse box panel. small, out of hte way. I have a small external antenna mounted on the roofrack behind the sunroof

I will take the aluminum track and the awning.. PM'ing you

this piece? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4530105

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4556775 just need to create your reversed (forward facing) ducts. the only issue...I am not sure how (what app) to modify the .obj file (I use Fusion3d)

that is interesting... I wonder if a first layer speed or using Brim would help to keep it planted on the bed

Looks like bed adhesion issues PLA?

What happens if you connect a trailer? will hitting the brakes shut off all the lights? (thats not good). also...the amazon link states not for LED...but your reciever light is LED (is it not?)