Sorry to hear this. how much clearance do you have between your axle and your oil pan?I was checking my flange angles at my transfer case it it wasn't quite where I wanted/expected it.
I was checking my flange angles at my transfer case it it wasn't quite where I wanted/expected it. The rear angle was a little low (which is set) which means the front had to come down. I was erroring on the side of caution when I placed the engine and had the engine pretty well clear of the axle. What I SHOULD have done is made it safe but barely free from hitting, which I didn't do. Everything would benefit from the engine coming down another inch, maybe close to 2 if I can work it. Wow. Talk about a shit feeling knowing that what you should do compared to what you want to be donig....particularly seeing how the engine is place, welded, painted and in assembly. I want to keep moving in the right direction, but then you have to truly define "right".
Right means chopping out the mount, repositioning the engine, and rewelding in mounts. WOW. Major shittty feeling. But, when you do something for yourself, you do it right.right. Hell, you go through the world once--when you do something at all, do it right--that is the only way to spend the time. So starting tomorrow, I am back in disassembly mode. Does it suck? Right now, at this moment, beyond belief. But for the right reasons which makes it.... well, it doesn't change the feeling or a fu$&ing thing. At least my Flaviar whiskey tasting package (wife's gift for xmas) arrived today. Tasters are fun and done....and some of the bottle. Now I am pissed, pissed, and need to piss. Flock.
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I hear you. And yeah, I actually have new 3d castor trailing arms that I will put in with the rebuilt axle. But that was just how the flag went up that there are TOO many issues---there are others but I was too pissed at myself for letting it get that far when I knew at the time it was a tad high. I'm fighting several things with it being too high---they include minimal clearance on the top before the head liner of the bonnet, a higher than optimum center of gravity (both that I could live and deal with) but then I have the added front and rear slight pinion angles that could be better (again, just slight, I could live with it) and then there is the bell housing. The R380 bell housing bulkhead adapter plate hits that wide bellhousing. I can trim that easy enough, but then I have to cut out a portion of the fiberglass bell housing tunnel where it hits. There are just too many things that I would not have to deal with I can correct with a slight change in position of the engine.Cant you adjust the rear angle by swapping the trailing arms and a frame mount ? What I did
You bet. Sounds like a plan. I will say, that it has to be qualified as a Stumpy Bell Housing version as the heights are also a function of projection due to the bonnet design---so you can actually be higher closer to the bulkhead than further away. So I will give a height and a bulkhead distance criteria when I do.Sounds like it'll work out for the better in the long run.
If you don't mind, I'd be curious what your height is now relative to say a fixed point on the bulkhead (or anything else that is similar to across vehicles, i.e. top of frame) - something that we could all reference and benefit from to avoid the same lessons learned.
Thought it was a great idea. While my photos don’t reference a fixed frame or bulkhead measure - I placed c channel across the wings, second photo is from FMIC / radiator- the fuel rail sits lower than the wings. This is R2.8, stumpy R380 - used the lt230 mounts as my fixed pivot for mount heightSounds like it'll work out for the better in the long run.
If you don't mind, I'd be curious what your height is now relative to say a fixed point on the bulkhead (or anything else that is similar to across vehicles, i.e. top of frame) - something that we could all reference and benefit from to avoid the same lessons learned.
That sounds like a line I used in High School, LOL! However most fluid mounts are fairly well sized. If I read the specs right, they are about 3.7" for the small taper, 5.6 for the large taper and a height of about 6.9". It's pretty big. But, doesn't phase me much--I have a welder... lol. (Before I go nuts and cut shit, I’ll 100% have these in hand with a dimensioned game plan— sometimes size is an issue…and your sentiment is well heeded.)They are bigger than they look FYI
I was not a huge fan of the isolators that came with the QD kit... Looking in to the Anchor 2698 and they do look like they are much nicer...BUT at almost 7 inches tall, there is no way they will fit, I only have 4.5 inches from the frame rail to the engine's bracket... I was thinking the 6.9" is including the studs.That sounds like a line I used in High School, LOL! However most fluid mounts are fairly well sized. If I read the specs right, they are about 3.7" for the small taper, 5.6 for the large taper and a height of about 6.9". It's pretty big. But, doesn't phase me much--I have a welder... lol. (Before I go nuts and cut shit, I’ll 100% have these in hand with a dimensioned game plan— sometimes size is an issue…and your sentiment is well heeded.)
I was thinking more about the mount and I will very possibly just cut the top off the existing frame mount and turn it into a mount that will accept a flat plate. Attach a flat plate to the new mount. then I will just need to make a horizontal mount for the engine which is also easy. Insert mount into new sandwich. Take plates. Remove mounts, weld plates. Easy peasy. Hahahaha.... we will see how easy it actually is soon enough...
Meanwhile, I'll try and finish the axle rebuilds this weekend....