Range Rover Classic Frame Swap

waveridin1959 · Feb 13, 2020

I'm going to pick up a rolling chassis this weekend to begin my Frame Swap on my 95 RRC. Im trying to compile a list of what I need to get before i start the process. I am planning to swap in a LT230 and Remove the ABS. The new chassis should still have the steering box and fuel tank sitting in it with all the lines.

I currently have:
RTE 3" Suspension - Springs/Control Arms/Rear Links/A-Arm Ext, Etc.
Full Set of Orange Poly Bushes.

What I have to purchase:
Body Mount Kit
Engine Mounts
Trans/Tcase Mounts
Front and Rear Drive Shafts
Shocks
Brake Lines

My plan is to clean the new frame up and paint it with tractor enamel and waxoyl the inside. Is there anything you would do while you have everything separated?

Roverman2010 · Feb 13, 2020

You can stick an extra body bushing in all round and get 1" more body lift, bumper lines will be a bit out unless you are changing bumper style?

waveridin1959 · Feb 13, 2020

Im planning to keep the body height stock.

erover82 · Feb 13, 2020

Which tractor enamel? As for Waxoyl, I'd consider a non-hardening corrosion prevention product like April, Dinitrol, CorrosionX HD.

waveridin1959 · Feb 13, 2020

Whatever is at tractor supply. Buddy of mine uses it on frames and says its pretty tough stuff. I thought about going the Galvy route with the frame, but figured it would be over kill for a truck that wont see much salt.

crown14 · Feb 13, 2020

Galvanize it. You know you want to. You know we want you to. You know whoever you sell it to will want it. Nobody is gonna be excited about some old thing covered in "whatever it is at tractor supply"

waveridin1959 · Feb 17, 2020

Picked up the frame over the weekend from Tillery's place. Came out of a GA truck. Im dont see any rust on the surface and everything looks nice and straight. As much a galvy would add to the bling factor, I dont think its necessary for the cost.

Uncle Douglas · Feb 18, 2020

Cost is around $220 for a single chassis. I personally would not do all that work and not install a galvanized chassis. Chassis rust from the inside out so making the decision based on exterior condition ( as so many do) isn't prudent. Salt speeds the process but all you need is dust\ dirt inside the frame. Drive the truck in the rain often, the dust gets washed to a low point, holds the moisture and rust gets rolling. Given the values Classics are bringing, it would be money well spent.

waveridin1959 · Feb 18, 2020

Doug,

I was told there was more cost associated with the galvy. Just sandblasting the frame doesnt take care of the channel and you would need to hot dip it first. If the cost was only $200 it would be a no brainer.

The driving factor comes down to time. I simply dont have time to take a chassis out to Burlington and get it prepped due to family constraints. The wife is giving me a week to get the truck done. Im going to be prepping the chassis at night to have a complete roller by the time I get a chance to attempt the actual swap.

Uncle Douglas · Feb 18, 2020

Brian
We have them blasted to white metal for around $300 and the dip is 200-225 so around $525 before transport expense.
The galv process is the first tank is a heated acid bath which I think is what you are refering to. It removes any rust that might be inside the chassis. The next tank is a heated rinse tank to remove the acid. Next tank is a heated flux tank to aid the zinc adhear to the steel, last is the molten zinc. Turn time drop to pick up is 3 days @ the place outside Richmond. Have 2 or three being done later this month. Shame we missed you on your run to Will's- he's 45mins from us on the other side of the Blue Ridge.

crown14 · Feb 18, 2020

Remind me why you are swapping the frame again?

rocky · Feb 18, 2020

A frame bearing.

waveridin1959 · Feb 19, 2020

Prior owner did a number on the frame with a wreck. We attempting mounting the RTE bumper to the front it isnt remotely straight. The frame is split behind the front sway mount which is all jacked. The rear end is a twisted too. One trailing arm ear is bent back to. Since I cant leave anything alone and never satisfied im putting a good frame under there. Since the body is nearly rust free and i've put a lot of work into it I want to finish it.

Maybe selling the Defender made me go mad.

waveridin1959 · Jul 25, 2020

Progress

rlynch356 · Sep 1, 2020

the frame was F-d up....Anyway, engine, Tranny, LT230 in new frame. the rest is TBD based on Jones schedule

waveridin1959 · Sep 2, 2020

Between the rear being tweaked, the front tweaked, I present the passenger outrigger repair from a previous wreck.

waveridin1959 · Jun 11, 2021

I finally got the Classic road worthy. Getting the interior bits fitted, finding where water is coming in on the passenger side, exhaust, and getting the Front and Rear bumpers on are next. Still waiting on 255s for the Natos.

cbkearney · Oct 16, 2021

Does anyone make a Range Rover classic chassis? I see disco 2’s, defenders and series but no Range Rover. I would imagine there is a market given their value these days.

jymmiejamz · Oct 16, 2021

cbkearney said:
Does anyone make a Range Rover classic chassis? I see disco 2’s, defenders and series but no Range Rover. I would imagine there is a market given their value these days.

They don’t seem to rust nearly as badly as D2 and Defender chassis. The D2 chassis is mad from thinner metal

Roverman2010 · Oct 16, 2021

Of the all the RRC's we parted out in the UK to made tray backs (back in the 80's) and the three I have owned over here, I have only seen the goal posts on two that rotted out.

Range Rover Classic Frame Swap

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