Orange Crush : 1990 Land Rover 110 ROW

Hello, World!



A couple of months back, this sexy beast was delivered to me. I purchased it sight unseen and spent a good week just looking it over. She was a working girl all her life, and mostly was ridden hard and put away wet. We are still counting the layers of orange paint that was slathered all over her body.

There was a throng of extra equipment that had been installed so she could perform her servitude. That all got ripped out. Then came the time to give her a bath, and so I took a power-washer to the entire interior and some of the exterior…and so this is the way she sits today.

I am not sure exactly how many months/years she sat, but we did change out the fluids, installed new plugs, chased down a bad ground and she started right up. She is actually in great mechanical condition. Her 2.5 Liter Petrol just powered us through a 300 mile road trip that included a day of trails through the Ozark Nation Forest. Transfer case and 5 speed were flawless. But let me tell you what did not perform flawlessly, the alternator/water pump belt…sometime after we left the trail that sucker snapped.

Current plan is to give her a complete resto-mod makeover. I am going to try to make her into a daily driver. Here is the problem; I’ve never rebuilt a car or truck…hell I don’t even change my own oil. So, yall have any advise?

I would definitely keep the dual speedo setup.


Actually I would start by removing anything non factory including the wiring all the way back to the splice. From there figure out what doesn't work and then assess why. Then start looking for parts and whatever you do don't keep track of what you are spending. It looks like a fun project and please start a build thread.

Always carry spare belts . The best advice is, if you take it apart, galvanize it.

the wheels have such a perfect patina..

1. Get all the manuals. They are around in many places but feel free to shoot me a pm and ill link you to them in dropbox.
2. ask lots of questions here before you buy. cant tell you how many things i bought twice or bought to only resell because i got the wrong part(s)
3. drive it. dont take it off the road unless you have to.

Being new to the game a few years back, and also buying site unseen. I lived some of the glory that you will soon see. My best advice is to keep driving it, or it will only live in your buddy's the barn in various stages of completion. Welcome and good luck.

The roughest part of working on any new to you truck is that before you start, you think you know the extent of work required, only to discover that the work and cost needed doubles or trebles once you pull stuff apart.
So go for a rolling restoration and improvement.
connect with and find the savvy mechanics in your local club who will help and guide you. Start small with a full fluid replacement and greasing of UJs. Then brakes.
You don't need to spend a fortune on tools, but you'll add to the collection.

@javelinadave All extraneous devices have been removed...including the second speedo. It was just taking up too much room, but I did store it in a safe place. I am thinking it will one day become art.

@evilfij Extra Belts...got it. Luckily O'Reilly's had something that worked...20 miles each way to get there...but we got her back on the road.

@WreckITFrank The entire car has patina...wife calls it filth, but what does she know. I've been driving it around...but I think it is time for her to go under the knife...here is what is on the schedule:

Rear Brake Disc Conversion
Axle Rebuild
Take out the Engine and Trans
Galvanize Frame and Bulkhead
Repower and Auto transmission
Add A/C
Bodywork
Redo the interior
Go for a drive.

@rocky Luckily for me, my neighbor just finished rebuilding his NAS90, most of my friends in town have Discos or RRs. And then there is you guys...I should be in good hands. I think once the disc brakes are installed, there won't be much opportunity to drive this sucker; at that point I'm in the deep end of the pool.

Thanks for all good wishes, but if the costs double or triple from my estimates, prayers might be more appropriate.

theShaytoon said:

Rear Brake Disc Conversion
Axle Rebuild
Take out the Engine and Trans
Galvanize Frame and Bulkhead
Repower and Auto transmission

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thats some serious work. all the things above you can do without disrupting your current driving vehicle. Find some axles and build a rolling chassis. With your patina, you probably need suspension too. You can still drive it and build up everything until the day comes to transfer over the body. I am not speaking from experience, just from experience i learned from others and someone who did 1/4 of that and wrenches more than drives. good plan though. def make a build thread.

@WreckITFrank Are you trying to get me killed? TWO parking spots for the Defender? I am already moving her golf cart out of the garage and into a shed.

SCORE! Well kinda...my truck has a 1.667 Transfer Case and with the planned repower I knew I was going to need lower gearing.

Contacted Ashcroft to inquire about re-gearing the damn thing instead of spending the $1600 to get a new TC (rebuilt) with the correct gearing... Things were good until Dave asked for the serial number, and that's when the plan hit wall. He determined that not only was I going to need the new gears, but there were two other gears that were required...well that took the cost to over $1000. Better to get one from them at that point...

WELL... I was talking to my neighbor about the loose dog that was wondering the neighborhood when he mentioned that he got a part he has been needing for his NAS90, he had picked it from the local pick and pull from a Disco 1…Didn’t think anything of it…then I was like, wait…There is a Disco 1 at the pick and pull?

A couple hours later I have a LT230 from a Disco 1 with the 1.22 gearing…FOR $145…sure it might need a rebuild, but way better than spending the $1600. I almost want to put it in AS-IS after a fluid change and see how it runs before rebuilding it….what do yall think?

theShaytoon said:

SCORE! Well kinda...my truck has a 1.667 Transfer Case and with the planned repower I knew I was going to need lower gearing.

Contacted Ashcroft to inquire about re-gearing the damn thing instead of spending the $1600 to get a new TC (rebuilt) with the correct gearing... Things were good until Dave asked for the serial number, and that's when the plan hit wall. He determined that not only was I going to need the new gears, but there were two other gears that were required...well that took the cost to over $1000. Better to get one from them at that point...

WELL... I was talking to my neighbor about the loose dog that was wondering the neighborhood when he mentioned that he got a part he has been needing for his NAS90, he had picked it from the local pick and pull from a Disco 1…Didn’t think anything of it…then I was like, wait…There is a Disco 1 at the pick and pull?

A couple hours later I have a LT230 from a Disco 1 with the 1.22 gearing…FOR $145…sure it might need a rebuild, but way better than spending the $1600. I almost want to put it in AS-IS after a fluid change and see how it runs before rebuilding it….what do yall think?

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I did the same thing to get a LT230Q (Q for quiet with cross drilled gears). Gears looked great and just changed gaskets and seals, an easy task on your workbench. The one thing I will pass along because I forgot is to pull the lockout solenoid unless you plan to wire it to something, which mine is not.

Nearly any LT230 will need new seals by this point.

Congratulations on the purchase! Looks like a fun project.

My advice would be to take your time and learn how to do all the work yourself. These are really simple machines with tons of aftermarket support as well as an incredible amount of knowledge and experience from the members of this forum. Parts are not terribly expensive and are readily available.

If you are considering a re power you should really give some thought to the 292 kits that RDavis developed. Even easier with a 2.5 petrol to start from.

theShaytoon said:

Repower and Auto transmission

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I love this plan, but please don't put an automatic in it!

My recommendation for you, as you’ve described yourself as someone who has never done a rebuild and doesn’t change oil, would be to buy a galvanized frame and build up the roller. Your list is full of what I would consider pretty advanced work. It’ll be easier to learn as you go working on a clean and open frame and axles rather than trying to do it the hard way.

I can't ever tell just from pics, but if the wheels are 569204 or ANR1534 don't let 'em rust away.

@pfshoen Nope...these are the ANR4636 wheels. The pic has some heavy filter work, but they are not as rusty as they appear. That's just surface rust . I wish they had been the ANR1534s....would have paid for new shoes for the old girl.

@Noyac40 will pull the solenoid. Was it to keep from people from going from hi to lo while at speed?

@mgreenspan I hear what you are putting down...that would be an expensive exercise. Plus I would hate to start cutting and welding on a new galv. frame. But to your point, definitely reordered the project timeline...

I have come to the conclusion that the best approach is to repower first, and once that part is done; disassemble the entire truck, galvanize / rebuild axles / paint + body and tackle the rest of the interior.

Which brings me to this...Why is the manual trans a better option? @hillstrubl Half of my cars have been manual, and while they have always been the sportscar variety, I can not imagine how a manual would better in an station wagon. Sure if something goes bad in a manual, it would be easier to fix out in the middle of a trail, but I wouldn't know where to begin. This is also why I can't do the @RDavisinVA 292 conversion. I am open to ideas, but the transmission type will take some convincing....so lay it on me!

Yes, solenoid was to prevent acciental shifting. If you end up doing the automatic, you will need to do same to the shifter box if you use Disco 1 or RRC, or wire to disengage when your foot is on the brake to shift into gear.

theShaytoon said:

This is also why I can't do the @RDavisinVA 292 conversion. I am open to ideas, but the transmission type will take some convincing....so lay it on me!

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Looks like it could have been a Firebrigade 110, likely Swiss, but I could be wrong.
The X-Swiss FB 110s are my favorite.
We had a 1983.
I prefer the Chevy 250 with an R380 Stumpy behind it.
AC is no problem.

Where are you located?

@RDavisinVA definitely not a Swiss car...I'm pretty sure then do not use the Greek alphabet. I'm in SW Missouri aka the Ozarks!

Do the Chevy 250 conversion. I am doing one now and all in I am less than 3K, Used motor with 40K miles. New Flywheel, starter, Alternator, Holley Sniper EFI and Hyperspark ignition. Robert Davis supplied the bell housing adapter, Alternator adapter (LHD), and motor mounts. Probably another 200 in little stuff, like a separate relay and fuse box from the starter switch to run the Fuel and ignition stuff (power will come direct from the battery, but be switched by the ignition key on position. I have an original 2.5 NAS Diesel. I will be posting the progress here in the forum.